On the far side of the Arrábida, an hour from Charneca, two places that go together for a day built around food: the port city of Setúbal and the wine villages of Azeitão on the way.
Setúbal
A working port on the Sado estuary, less visited than it should be. The Mercado do Livramento is one of the best food markets in the country — fish especially — and the old streets behind it are full of small restaurants doing fried cuttlefish, the local dish. Boat trips go out into the estuary to see the resident dolphins.
Azeitão
A cluster of small villages known for three things: Moscatel de Setúbal, a sweet fortified wine you can taste at the old cellars; Azeitão cheese, a soft sheep’s cheese you eat with a spoon; and the tile workshop at São Simão, still making azulejos by hand.
Good to know
- About an hour by car from our apartment; the two are 15 minutes apart
- The Livramento market is a morning thing and best on Friday and Saturday
- The José Maria da Fonseca winery in Azeitão runs tours and tastings — book ahead
- Easy to combine with the Arrábida ridge road on the way